The Return to Being

It’s the morning of day 336 at sea.  The air feels different this particular morning.  The waves don’t have the same rhythm, and the hues of light peering through the cabin tell me I’m no longer in the deep blue expanse.  For the first time in 11 months, I awake to a forest green coastline, rich turquoise waters, and mixed emotions.  I’m eager to reach shore yet pensive about leaving my floating capsule of 11 months.  I’m excited about reunifying with loved ones and uncertain if the weather will cooperate.  I have 5 miles remaining of the meandering 10,000-mile slog across the Pacific Ocean.  I made it!  Almost.  I need to hit shore of my own accord or I’ll risk completing the journey without making landfall.  It’s not mandatory to make landfall of my own accord, but it would be a nice feather in my cap.  I’ve come this far, and it’s time to see this through to the end.


That was over a year ago. I said I would write about this final day long ago. Instead, I’ve been roaming the halls of suffering. The successful achievement quelled my ego’s anxieties, but the relief would prove temporary. Something was still missing. One would think 336 days alone is enough time to formulate a detailed plan of the future. Or at least a worthy aim point and the inklings of where to begin. My planning ended the second I reached shore, which felt liberating. It was a fresh start. The liberation allowed for infinite possibility. I embraced the freedom and began creating thousands of potential futures. It was a wonderland of imagination that would prove unsustainable. As we all know, whether we’re surrounded by loved ones or alone at sea, the mind drifts effortlessly. I didn’t pay attention to the careless drifting. I experienced it. I embodied it. And my mind began roaming with reckless abandon. I was unconsciously allowing the narrative of thought to apprehend my full attention. Whether alone or in a crowd, my thoughts reigned supreme. Thoughts that became increasingly destructive. Something was still missing.


I couldn’t see the marina in the distance, but I could identify a landmark called “Yorkeys Knob” signifying a distinct reference to my destination.  The morning hours ticked by as I waited for the Australian Volunteer Coast Guard to arrive.  I oscillated between wistful daydreams and the impending practicalities of safe landfall.  We planned an early morning coast guard arrival with my family on board, where I’d then release anchor and row directly to the nearest marina.  Of course, the plan didn’t carry the final word, it was contingency planning that sealed my fate.  When the distinctive coast-guard-yellow eventually appeared over the horizon, I prepared for the final push.  I knew it was going to be rough day despite the short distance to shore.  The winds were again attempting to thwart my efforts.  I needed a westerly course, but the winds and squalls were intent on pulling me north towards dangerous shores.  Before I knew it, the diesel-powered vessel was upon me with familiar faces waving and strained hellos attempting to bridge the gap.  Surreal.  Let’s cut anchor and get to work.


If you don’t live life, life will happen to you. It became increasingly clear. I wanted to return to aviation, fly for a year or two, save some money, then begin the next adventure. It was a means to an end. A logic that would prove not just faulty, but catastrophic. Yet, it was the plan and so I embarked. I was hired as a pilot, went through weeks of training, regained my qualifications, then prepared to travel overseas for work. Then the virus arrived. Travel ceased, my resources dwindled, and my anxieties grew. Life started happening to me. It started happening to all of us. Travel finally opened up, but due to a hitch in my government Top Secret clearance, I was delayed further. The pressure of life happening to me was building. In an interview with NPR, I said that with no career, no romantic relationship, and no children, I could begin articulating goals for every category of my life then forthrightly move towards those goals. Instead, under the pressure of randomness, no career became anxiety about the future, no stable romantic relationship or children became insecurity and shame, and the virus-induced isolation from friends became a sense of lack. I wasn’t paying attention, I became increasingly distracted, and attention to my personal health began to decline. This is the definition of suffering. Something was still missing.


It should’ve taken 2-3 hours to reach shore.  Broadside breaking waves, winds, and intermittent squalls added several more hours.  In order to row non-stop, I memorized my required course over the ground, the angles I could potentially lose, and divert options.  I didn’t want to miss the mark, or any mark that ended in disaster for that matter.  The hours passed, the distance closed, but I was slowly losing ground to the north.  Immediately north of my intended destination was a dangerous rocky outcropping.  Obviously, I didn’t want to end there.  I thought I could maybe squeeze south into the marina if I give it my all.  Maybe not.  No matter what I tried, the siren’s call was leading me straight for catastrophe.  Less than a mile from completion, I had to make a decision.  Keep fighting or adapt.  I chose to abandon the marina and make landfall safely on a beach.  Hopefully.  This would prove a precarious decision.  But there lies my fate, away from randomness and closer to my adaptation of the circumstances.  Trinity Beach it shall be.  I made the declaration via VHF radio and set sights on the golden sand directly north. 


With the luxury of digital audio, I prepared a selection of learning opportunities to explore during my extended isolation. Amongst the selection contained material about meditation, yoga, and various spiritual discussions. I couldn’t say what drew me to such material, but it felt as though I kept encountering echoes of a deep longing. I couldn’t ignore it. There were no realizations or revelations at sea, but something deep within started shining through. Returning to land after 11 months of isolation was chaotic, disorienting, and ultimately unsatisfying. I needed a stabilizing force, so I volunteered at a healing center south of Sydney called Govinda Valley Retreat. I spent 6 weeks practicing yoga, connecting with amazing people, and formulating a path forward. Meanwhile, the emerging light within still longed for more. I listened. I was drawn to the mountains of Cusco, Peru to attend a yoga teacher certification course. There I encountered more wonderful people, learned great information, but ultimately left unsatisfied. Something was still missing.


It’s quiet now.  Trinity beach is almost directly north, which means I’m now with the wind and waves.  It’s much quieter when you’re not fighting nature.  I simply set the rudder, waited, and let the wind take me home.  I received intermittent radio calls of what to expect upon reaching shore.  They were almost frivolous calls since little would change the outcome.  I’ll take what I can get.  My only intervention was to keep Emerson perpendicular to shore; I didn’t want to immediately fight against broaching.  At the last minute, I saw an older gentleman strolling on the beach with red swimmers and a white polo shirt.  As if I appeared from an ethereal mist, he suddenly faced me and says with a thick Australian accent “Tis a bit dodgy, innit!”  Standing up, facing forward and ready for impact, I smile and say “It’s very dodgy.”


The decline into suffering wasn’t immediate. It was gradual. The more I tried to force a path into the virus-laden world, the more life responded with randomness of equal force. I was living in a world where every thought carried the weight of negativity, expectations, and consequences. Random encounters do not operate well in this space, and my growing inner turmoil was a clear indication of my growing dysfunction. My ego began screaming in self-generated agony. I felt the sand dissolving beneath the structure of my identity. The weight of suffering generated too much pressure and something cracked. I suddenly recognized my identity and ego as one in the same, and recognized that I am neither. A space between thoughts appeared. That tiny sliver of space allowed me to recognize that I’m not generating my thoughts. I recognized that each thought is a construct of mental narrative that ultimately does not exist. I recognized that I can choose to believe a negative thought, choose to believe a positive thought, or choose to abandon the thought altogether. I recognized there is only what is, and assigning belief to thought is a dangerous pursuit. I recognized that I am the awareness observing all thought. I recognized that I was trapped in a web of intellect and logic, completely unaware of the nature of being. It explained everything. It can’t be that easy! My intellect refused; it was incredulous. Something was still missing. 


It’s such a peculiar sound, especially after 11 months. Yet here it was, Emerson’s hull slowly skidding to a halt in the Australian sand. Row complete! Almost. Officially yes, but as any pilot will say, the flight isn’t over until the chocks are in place and the engines are shut down. We need to get Emerson off the shore and tied to a dock before the day is done. Immediately after impact, I jumped out to stabilize Emerson. Instead, I immediately collapsed underwater. My legs didn’t quite remember how to function on land. I soon recovered amidst breaking waves on a steep shore, waves that continuously threatened broaching. We needed to stabilize Emerson or recovery would become increasingly difficult. In a matter of minutes, I was surrounded by dozens of citizens ready to give a helping hand. We grabbed the bow line and collectively extended the line perpendicular to shore. While the bow was pulled towards shore, more generous volunteers jumped in the ocean to stabilize the stern. More people arrive. I see family and friends waving and a confident journalist asking questions with a pointed camera. Standing on the shore with arms crossed and eyes fixed, two Australian Border Patrol officials ensure I don’t slip into the bush undocumented. Amusing. The boat is now somewhat stable, time to get off shore and finish this thing.


The space between thoughts revealed something profound.  It revealed a subtle shift in perspective.  It’s a shift so obvious, that my ego and intellect found it maddening.  Instead of being immersed, identifying, and embodying thoughts or ideas, I could now see them as irrelevant manifestations of the mind.  I was no longer attached to the ideas, but found they certainly can’t be ignored.  I saw the constant ticker-tape of thought after thought, after thought, after thought, constantly streaming across the mind’s eye.  I can now see when I’m captivated or mesmerized by a thought, and I can see the associated negative emotions that strengthen those thoughts.  So, what does it mean?  If the thoughts and negative emotions are being observed, who is doing the observing?  Who is aware of my awareness?  A separation is developing.  Or one could say presence is emerging.  Where is this presence emerging from?  It’s emerging from the nature of being.  Or one might say the nature of being is becoming apparent.  Is this what was missing?  But it seems so difficult to constantly be aware of my own awareness!  Is that the answer?  Something is still missing.


It’s time to get Emerson off shore. We needed a way to drag Emerson off the beach, back into deeper water. A coast guard crew motoring off shore contacted the Trinity Beach lifeguard station via VHF radio to formulate the plan. Stabilize the boat, then get the stern line in the hands of the crew that will pull me off shore. I see a lifeguard on a paddleboard leaving shore with my stern line. She makes contact, the line is secured, and I get confirmation that the crew is ready. I wave in response, see the slack between us vanishing, and prepare for departure. It was shocking to feel the power of a motorized vessel exerting it’s will after months of quiet passage. I found myself grasping the gunnel of the boat as my legs dragged though moving water. The boat was leaving with or without me! I managed to board Emerson, but the force of passing water ripped my starboard oar clean off the boat. I’m dismayed by the loss, but trust my companion will find a new home. I’m now back in open water with the thrill of landfall still vibrating throughout my body. One last step. Let’s get to the marina for a proper arrival.


What is being?  What does Human Being mean?  I realized all my seeking and exploring led me back to the simplest of questions.  Who am I, really?  What am I doing here, really?  What’s the point of all this?  Somehow, we’ve shoved these questions deep under a dark shadow hidden with fear.  We comfort in belief, faith, science, or ignorance, but deep down there’s an unsettled need for more.  The increasing polarization of society is an obvious indication that something is missing.  It became clear that I ultimately needed to understand Being.  Upon relinquishing my attachment to thoughts, the weight of anxiety began lifting.  When I abandoned thoughts of inadequacy, a fullness within began growing.  When I let concerns of the future drift away, creativity began bursting.  When I became present with nature, child-like wonder re-emerged.  I was reconnecting with Being.  I connected with the place where forgiveness lives.  I connected with the place of acceptance, the place where identity is irrelevant.  I connected with the place where our pain and trauma can be liberated.  Here, the veil of destructive thought can no longer torment.  Here is where we learn who we really are.  Here is where knowledge becomes knowing.  It’s all so clear – something is not missing.  Something is in the way.


It’s early evening now.  Most of the afternoon showers have dissipated.  I’m attached to the Coast Guard vessel, en route to Yorkeys Knob Boating Club.  My wild adventure is coming to a close.  Already nostalgia is forming.  This will no longer be my home, and this will no longer be my life.  The Volunteer Coast Guard crew is growing tired after a long day on the water, making for a somewhat clumsy transit.  I couldn’t be more grateful.  After completion of the customs paperwork, I exit Emerson for the last time.  A new chapter begins.  I’m greeted by family, friends, a wonderful crowd of people, and news cameras.  It’s a haze of questions, hugs, photographs, handshakes, and generous words of support.  Champagne flows, and Emerson now proudly displays the Australian flag on her stern.  The buzz of excitement and celebration fills the air.  I was living in a dream, but knew my next journey had already begun.  The night was filled with stories, laughter, and seafaring tales of woe.  The excitement fades, the crowds disperse, and our dinner concludes.  For the first time, I silently peer over the balcony rail back upon Emerson.  There she was, safely tied to the dock, peacefully floating with a gentle knowing that she served well.  And a knowing that our time together has come to an end.


We’ve arrived. We’re back to where we’ve been all along – right here. Here I’m going to continue releasing attachment to ideas, thoughts, objects, and belief. Here I’m going to create in service to an ideal. Why did I row across the Pacific Ocean? Because it helped me return to Being. What’s next? I’m starting a business in service to creating personal freedom and meaningful human connection. There is no more seeking, there are no expectations, and there is no end point. I encourage each of you to turn inward and discover what you already know. I encourage you to live in service to an ideal. I encourage you to release the prison of your thinking mind. I encourage you to see yourself in others. Let us all face the challenges ahead with a clear mind, free of identity. Let us accept the pain and trauma we’ve endured, and let us forgive. Something is not missing. It’s right here.

Rise Above

Day 335

It's time to make a break for the shore. The forecast calls for a brief shift in wind direction lasting just long enough to potentially make a final push through the Great Barrier Reef. I'm not entirely confident in the weather break, but I gain some confidence when I see the wind slowly shifting southeast as predicted. I'm contemplating the duration of the anticipated wind shift, what angles I can expect during the shift, and the overall wind speed. It's not looking great, but if I miss this window, it's looking much worse for the following 3 or 4 days. In a different world, I might've waited for a better window, but today my family and friends are landing in Cairns, giving me a little taste of get-home-itis. I obviously don't plan to sacrifice safety, but I'll probably have to push the limit of my capabilities should I commit. It's still about 2 hours before the wind should reach its final angle-intensity arrangement, so I take the opportunity to rest in anticipation of an arduous day ahead.

I wake at 10:45 AM and make a final assessment of the weather. The wind shifted southeast enough and the wind speed is calm enough. The waves aren't going to help, but I should be able to make the angles I need. It's slightly precarious, but I decide to commit. Once I detach from the mooring, there's no going back. I'll either make safe waters, or I'll end up drifting north of my planned destination. The intention is to aim for the shark and crocodile infested waters of Mission Bay, anchor overnight, then make a break for Cairns first thing in the morning. Luckily, if I can't make the cut to Cairns, I still have divert options to the north. I take a final look at the gray skies, prepare for immediate rowing, then make my way to the bow. I open the bow hatch, pull in the line attaching Emerson to the mooring buoy, reach the shackle and disconnect. I'm back on my own. I quickly run the line over the top of the bow cabin and back to the rowing area. I close the hatch and immediately start rowing away from Flynn Reef towards Cairns. It's 11:00 AM.

The first few minutes show that with no rowing, I'll drift well north of my intended destination. This is slightly disconcerting. Rowing with both oars at moderate intensity, I'm still about 10 degrees short of what I need. This is more disconcerting. Rowing with both hands on the starboard oar at a slightly increased intensity gives me what I need, sometimes slightly more. I should be ok. As I'm getting a feel for the 20+ miles ahead of me, I spot a diving catamaran attempting what looks like a close pass. When the catamaran is within shouting distance, I see the tail end swing towards me, exposing the stern and 20+ people giving me not one, but two jubilant cheers. I wave back. Yes, I think I'll be ok. But nature has yet to have her final say for the miles ahead. Of course, this means squall after squall, and nudge after nudge north of my intended course. After 6 hours of rowing, it's nearing 5:00 PM, the overcast sky is darkening, and I'm barely maintaining.

As the skies give way to darkness, I attempt a quick rest break. The second I stop rowing, I immediately start losing angles to the north. I can't afford breaks. I eat as quickly as possible then get back to it. Quitting isn't an option at this point. It's the last major push towards shore on day 335 at sea; I'll row until something breaks. Up to this point, I've only lost a one or two degrees off my desired course, so there's still a chance I can make my planned destination. The hours press on, the squalls keep coming, the miles slowly count down, and I begin to feel the effects of fatigue. I'm approaching Cape Grafton with the hope that I'll reach somewhat sheltered waters once I'm clear to the west. However, instead of shelter, I encounter currents from the south which seem accelerated by the underwater terrain near the cape. I can no longer hold my course; I'm suddenly off by 10, then 20 degrees. The currents are bad. No matter how hard I row, nature is taking the upper hand. It's almost 01:00 AM and time to think about diverting.

It's clear the initial marina of choice is no longer in the cards. I stop fighting the winds and currents and adjust my course for Yorkeys Knob Boat Club, the next available marina to the north. I'm no longer working non-stop, which finally gives me a second to realize that I'm fully embraced by the glimmer of  cultural lighting for the first time in nearly a year.  I see the lights of anchored ships, the clearly defined shoreline, and the various navigational lights defining safe passage though the harbor.  The entire scene is further accentuated by the orange city lights reflecting from the low clouds above.  I made Cairns Harbor; I'm clear of the Great Barrier Reef.  I'm not safely anchored in Mission Bay as planned, but I'm in Cairns Harbor.  I row for the next 2 hours admiring the lights around me until I clear the main shipping channel.  The clock reads 2:45 AM and I'm 5 miles from my new destination of Half Moon Bay; it's about time for some rest. 

After 16 hours of nearly non-stop rowing, I find a spot on the charts that should be clear of corals; I don't want a stuck anchor in the morning. I see 30 foot waters, drop the anchor, and glide safely to a stop. I make sure I'm not drifting and get ready for sleep. Day 336 will be upon me within hours; I should probably rest before the Australian Volunteer Coast Guard arrives in the morning. The QF9 Flotilla in Cairns is generously planning on escorting me during the final 5 miles. Before resting, I update the Coast Guard, my shore team, and family of my new anchor location and new destination. Since Half Moon Bay isn't an official port of entry, I also need to get additional approvals through the Australian Border Force. It's going to be a busy morning. It's now past 03:00 AM, it'll be here before I know it.

Keep After It

P.S. I'll finish the final day in the next post.

 

Day 334

Attached to the mooring buoys on the northwest side of Flynn Reef. 

Attached to the mooring buoys on the northwest side of Flynn Reef. 

Day 334

The coastal mountain ranges of Queensland, Australia are in sight.  They're enticingly close, and quite a sight they are.  It took 331 days for them to come into view, but they're not quite in focus yet.  I'll have to finish the short remaining distance of my journey to enjoy them with full clarity.  I'm 99.5% complete, 30 miles from Cairns, and miraculously, securely attached to Flynn Reef.  I never imagined such a scenario would define my first encounter with the Great Barrier Reef, but I'm here nonetheless, anchored in the waters of Australia.  And yes, the Australian Border Force is aware of my presence.  I've already been threatened with $5,000 fines if I don't communicate my intentions more clearly!

I anticipated the possibility of encountering winds from the south or southeast as I approached the shores of Australia.  I added about 50 miles of travel to ensure I approached from the south.  Everything was working as planned, I just needed the actual weather to match the historical weather expected for this time of year, and I'd be home free. This did not happen.  A large high pressure system moving slowly east over the Great Australian Bight created a firm ridge of high pressure over Queensland waters. This resulted in forecasted strong wind warnings of 20 to 25 knots from the south to southeast, sometimes reaching 30 knots.  This forecast was fulfilled, and then some.  

I might've managed those winds fine if I didn't have the Great Barrier Reef to contend with.  I tried to find the best SE to NW approach through the reefs, but the options are limited.  The best I could plot in order to minimize time within the reef and optimize angles, still required a turn directly west.  I've never encountered these reefs before, never navigated through them, so I didn't know exactly what to expect.  I was overly cautious, especially considering the difficulties of 30 knots on a rowboat.  10 miles from my planned reef entrance, Flora Pass, the winds died down to 15-20 knots.  This was perfect.  It gave me a chance for a quick nap before going all-out through the reefs, and gave me hope that I could still make that cut west, even with winds from the south.  Unfortunately, when I woke, the winds were back in full force. 

I arrived at the entrance to Flora Pass around 2:00 AM.  The temperatures were in the low 70's, the winds were back up to a steady 25, easily holding 30 at times, gusting even higher.  The absent moon made for black overcast skies, rain showers were everywhere, and the visibility was close to zero.  Waves easily boarded the vessel and saltwater spray was nearly constant.  It was time to get after it.  I went full waterproofs, even complete with waterproof socks (that weren't so waterproof), and my waterproof gloves (totally not waterproof at all).  The wet wind still gave me chills through the layers as I was getting pelted in the face with spray and rain.  All my previous tests at holding a westbound course approaching this point were a complete success.  Now the winds are a little too strong and a little too close to south.  Using both oars, I'm not making the angles I need.  I drop the port and try both hands pulling hard on starboard with a full deflected rudder; I gain a few more degrees.  Still not enough.  

I maintained a decent path to clear the first two reefs, but a little closer than planned.  I'm reaching the point of the westbound turn and it's decision time.  Unless the winds suddenly drop or shift in my favor, the turn isn't going to happen.  I obviously can't bank on it, so I call the local Australian Volunteer Coast Guard for advice on potentially anchoring on a reef.  It's either anchor or drift back out into the open ocean without a sea anchor (it blew out trying to hold in 30 knot winds two weeks prior).  The problem is I've never anchored on a reef, the charts are very ambiguous regarding water depths surrounding the reefs, and I have no idea what they look like approaching from a 4 foot eye level.  I have to try.  The sun is now up and for the first time, the sea is an amazing turquoise after months of deep blue.  

I stop my one sided rowing and let the seas take me north to the first potential stop, Milln Reef.  I need to anchor on the downwind side, yet the strong southerly winds will not allow a turn directly east or west, so this presents a problem.  I pass well clear on the western side of the reef, then turn east as aggressively as I possibly can, striving for the shallow waters on the north side.  I can't make the cut; I miss it entirely.  The shallowest water I saw was 80 feet, way too deep for me to anchor.  But now I know what a reef looks like and I know the limitations of my charts.  I also know what the breaking waves look like near the shallows.  I'll try again on the next reef north with a tighter margin.  

I see breaking waves outlining the shallow waters of Flynn Reef to my north.  I aim as close to the western most breakers as my nerves will allow.  I don't want to miss this one.  Without rowing, I'm still hitting 2 knots, with no chance of stopping via oars.  My goal is to skim the western edge and immediately cut inside to the northern shallows.  I then see a mooring buoy on the south side; it distracts me towards the east at the last minute.  I'm now quickly drifting close to 100 meters inside my aim point; this is bad.  Suddenly I'm surrounded by breaking waves and a depth meter rapidly decreasing from 45 feet, 20 feet, 9 feet, 4 feet, then -- feet.  Uh oh.  I brace and wait... ccreeeak.  Yep, I just hit the reef - though it was brief, less than a second of contact.  Let's say the keel gently kissed the reef.  Thankfully, the depth is right back, but rising way too fast.  I see 20 feet, drop the anchor and hope for the best.  200 feet of line comes to an end and the boat slowly coasts to a stop.  In 80 foot waters.  Right next to a mooring buoy.  

That obviously did not happen as planned.  Luckily, there was no critical damage; that easily could've been catastrophic.  But I honestly don't know if I would've caught the shallow waters without that ordeal.  I'm now tied to that fateful buoy and can sleep soundly while I wait for these winds to turn in my favor.  Not drifting or moving after 331 days is quite strange, but very pleasant, especially with those Queensland mountains in sight.  

Keep After It 

Day 313

Melty solar panel. A loss of 17% solar power. Or I can risk it and push the melty level.

Melty solar panel. A loss of 17% solar power. Or I can risk it and push the melty level.

Day 313

I was bent down clearing water from the center footwell when a flying fish landed on my back.  Nothing further on that development except to know that a fish flopping on a bare skin back feels...  like maybe it shouldn't be happening.  My Whale Gusher bilge pump is now broken beyond repair, so it's buckets and sponges here on out.  The rubber baffle which allows for suction is now full of holes.  I'm now less than 700 nautical miles from Cairns.  I got a lucky break south from what is now Tropical Cyclone Ann, helping my approach angles tremendously.  Ann left my company as she was transforming from a tropical storm into a cyclone.  That doesn't mean I didn't get a fair amount of punishment in the form of high winds and waves.  I made it through relatively unscathed with the exception of one unfortunately placed breaking wave.  

The winds were holding steady in the high twenties when a large squall made an appearance.  This pushed the wind up to high thirties with frequent gusts into the forties.  After about 25 minutes in these conditions, I sat opposite the chart plotter assessing the winds and my orientation to the waves.  Emerson has a tendency to get sucked into high winds, leaving me broadside to the waves.  I'm assuming this happens because my boat is shaped somewhat like an airfoil.  It seems the wind passes around my boat faster on the windward side, creating lower pressures and a pull towards the wind.  Regardless, I was a little too broadside for comfort.  Since it appeared we were handling the waves just fine, I briefly opened the hatch door for a blast of fresh air.  The timing couldn't have been worse.  

The rain was coming down hard, yet suddenly it went quiet.  That could mean one of two things - the rain suddenly stopped or I'm sitting low in a trough, there's a steep wall of water between me and the rain, and it's falling in my direction.  It's well past sunset and the moonlight has no chance of piercing through the cloud layers above, so I can't see a thing.  I have one battery monitor gauge remaining that tends to act finicky, but seems to work fine.  As I'm paralyzed in the midst of the silence, that gauge, without provocation, spontaneously and eerily illuminated the blue LED backlight as if to say "times up."  Because a split second after that LED came on, a large steep wave crashed directly broadside into the port side of the boat.  The rain certainly didn't stop.  

Luckily I was sitting on the same side of impact with my feet planted opposite, because I was suddenly standing over the electrical panel pushing hard with my legs, arms preparing for a fall.  The noise was terribly loud, nothing but violent thrashing.  The boat rolled 75-80 degrees, and as if in slow motion, I see a sheet of water in front of my face illuminated from behind by that same blue LED.  Anything not secured has found a new home in the top right corner of the boat.  After what feels like an eternity, the trashing slowly subsides and the sheet of water finds its way towards my feet.  This is good, Emerson is slowing rolling back to vertical.  The rain returns.  The LED extinguishes.  I assess.  The footwell is nearly full of water, my bed is sopping wet, the electrics are still operational, I'm not hurt.  But there's now an awful creaking sound.  I have to exit the cabin and determine the cause.  

I exit to find the two operational oars still securely in place.  Unfortunately, I left the forward half of the canvas protection raised.  I find the right side is dangling by the lower zipper, and the left side is dangling by the top snaps. Luckily, the left side was partially unzipped and the wave just finished the process.  I quickly remove the canvas and notice the right side is dangling by the zipper because the snaps were ripped clean off the boat.  I toss them in the aft cabin; I see there's nothing hindering the rudder mechanics.  The creaking is too loud.  I can't see the waves, the rain is pelting me, any new sound or lack of sound sends me into a low brace, preparing for a similar impact.  I peek over the sides and find the cause of the creaking.  The impact has dislodged my spare oars from the side of the boat.  On both sides.  These are secured by a forward cubby and an aft lashing.  The blades of the oars are at least 6 inches deep in the cubbies.  Not anymore; they are now dangling by the aft lashings, being dragged behind the boat. 

I can't pull the oars in by hand, I simply don't have the leverage.  I can only reach two feet down the nearly 11 foot oars.  I can't let them be, those lashings will only hold for so long.  I grab my parachute anchor retrieval line; it has a heavy metal clip.  I attempt a loop around an oar and let gravity and the flowing water send the clip down below the surface.  Luckily the loop tightens and catches far enough down that I gain enough leverage to yank the oar to safety.  I repeat and tie them all off well above the waterline, then return to the flooded cabin.  I can finish stowing the oars in calmer conditions.  I'll spare you the details of the ensuing indoor cleanup.  Suffice it to say, it took me about 2 hours.  The only casualties in the ordeal were two cracked spare oars and the skin on my right pinky.  I failed to put on gloves and left a hole in my finger somewhere in the midst of pulling oars to safety.  And I lost some potatoes.  Water flooded two compartments, one with food.  

Everything is dry and back to normal, though remnant currents from Tropical Cyclone Ann continue to help me along at excellent speeds.  She takes some and gives some.  I can't help but imagine if I were in a different, lighter rowboat, I would've tumbled over during that spell.  Emerson is remarkably stable, and for that, I'm grateful.  In also did a full food inventory and found I've been saving better than I thought.  I have about two months left without fishing, so I'm no longer concerned about food.  I actually increased my food consumption to better match my pace.  I'm now abeam Cairns, so I'm also feeling better about reaching my destination as planned.  As of now, I'd estimate the shores of Cairns will be in sight between 1 and 11 June.  Until then, I'll keep after it.  

Paddle On

Day 280

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Day 280

You may have noticed my progress take a turn towards erratic and unpredictable.  I've left the comfort of steady trade winds and found a low pressure area with adverse conditions.  I just didn't expect the adverse conditions to continue for this long.  My 9th month at sea was the 2nd worst in terms of mileage.  I barely made 300 miles of progress, as compared to my best month, covering over 1000 miles.  I didn't expect these conditions to persist, mainly because historical weather patterns indicate entirely different conditions.  Perhaps El Niño had some influence.  Unfortunately, it's not looking much better anytime soon.  Despite not getting any closer to my destination, I've managed to arc around to the south, creating better approach angles to Australia, which will help tremendously later.  

I don't particularly mind the delay, with one exception - food.  I left with a 10 month supply, water intrusion ruined a few weeks worth, I'm 9 months in, and I most likely have another 2-3 months remaining.  I knew this was coming, so I cut back my consumption months ago.  Even with the cut back, my body measurements are still looking great.  I recently implemented the next round of cut backs.  I can feel this one much more, but my energy levels are still sufficient.  I still have plenty of food, there's nothing to be alarmed about, but continuing to persist in a black hole of progress does create some level of anxiety.  And yes, I'm fishing.  Since my goal is unsupported, I won't be getting a resupply.  I'll either stop early, go the distance, or get forced onto a different shore by the whims of nature.  

Speaking of nature, it seems birds of the sea like hunting in higher wind environments, or at least something greater than 5-10 knots.  When the winds calm and the seas die down, the birds disappear.  Except for one. There's this all-brown bird with a two foot wingspan that flies solo and loves the calms.  The cruising altitude for this guy is probably 6-12 inches.  It's right there in ground effect, the cushion of air created between his wings and the surface of the ocean.  I've seen one actually bounce its belly right on the surface and continue flying.  Whether it was on purpose or not, I don't know, but it looked hilarious.  It makes sense to avoid the bigger waves when cruising that low.  Unfortunately, no Boobies to speak of recently.  

The bioluminescence has behaved rather predictably lately, with the exception of occasional deeper amorphous blobs of illumination.  Maybe it's the surface waves causing the amorphous appearance, since they illuminate around 10 feet under the surface.  Instead of rapid flashes, these blobs illuminate suddenly and brightly, and maintain consistent brightness for upwards of 10 seconds.  They are 5-6 feet across and look like a giant shimmering green light bulb.  Eventually, it all extinguishes at once.  When rowing, you can definitely tell when you're in a higher density bioluminescence area by the reaction to the oars.  It can get so dense that green swirls around the oars are just the beginning.  It's really intense when the oars are lifted from the water to reset and the water dripping from the oars are nothing but splashing green dots, Avatar style.  

I had another encounter with a Sunfish, those goofy looking, docile creatures.  They are the largest fish in world and apparently have more bones than any other fish.  They'll swim right up to you, probably looking for an assist on parasite removal before swimming back into the depths for a jellyfish hunt.  It'll be a slow motion hunt, but a hunt nonetheless.  I also had a few days with Right Whales, also known as Black Whales of the Baleen variety, according to my Sister's research assist.  One calm morning I turned on my water maker and the humming vibration must've attracted a curious one because a few minutes later, I heard a loud exhalation right outside the cabin.  It was calm enough that I immediately went to stand on top of the boat for a clear view.  I stood to find a 20 foot creature circling my boat within 10 yards. It surfaced to spout several times, which is when I noticed two blow holes and a V-shaped spout, which was the identification giveaway.  I went to grab my dive mask for a closeup view, but it was gone before I got the chance.  Additional whale sightings were further in the distance, but still quite impressive.  

The days are now getting shorter.  Sunlight maxed out at 12 hours and 10 minutes near equator with the sun directly overhead.  I'm guessing it was greater than 12 hours because the earth is a little wider than tall due to rotational forces.  As the Southern Hemisphere approaches winter, historical weather trends become less favorable for my planned completion.  The winds become more predominantly out of the southeast, which will make continued progress south more and more difficult.  Once I'm established in the Coral Sea with steady winds, I'll have a much better idea of when I'll land where.  Until then, I'll keep after it.

Paddle On

P.S.  As a reminder, you can have an immersive tracking experience using Google Earth thanks to David Burch at Starpath School of Navigation.  For instructions, see http://davidburchnavigation.blogspot.com/2019/01/Tracking-Jacob-Adoram.html